|Somewhat gritty dive caf� in an area (Polk Gulch, more accurately) where the neighbors know their limited morning options (yet this is SF, they have a 'classier' Web site: cafegraindor.com). A couple of outdoor sun umbrellas over some limited sidewalk seating (near the Tenderloin?!) and a few modest indoor tables while The Cure plays in the background and residents use the wireless access. Odd Middle-Eastern garage sale look inside, with ceramic camels and a hookah and old speakers decorating the place. Not to mention a huge stack of dusty Caff� Moak cups (and a sign or two) - showing their former bean supplier. Now they line bags of America's Best Coffee beans across the top shelf - proudly showing their desire to save a little money on their coffee. Using a two-group Brasilia Portofino, they produce an espresso with a pale, thin crema that dissipates quickly. It has a flavor of pepper and spices - accentuated by some of the sloppiest barista skills around: coffee grounds are splatter all around, and in, the cup.