|Average Union Square restaurant sports a suburban mall's vision of Italian dining. Festive "Italianate" interior with a long bar and plenty of window seating. Despite staff that leave their portafilter handles cooling on the drip tray and serve espresso with a lemon rind, their espresso is quite good for restaurant standards. Served as an appropriately short cup, it has a good layer of creamy, medium brown crema. Black and with a good, thick body. Pungent flavor of cloves, tobacco, some smoke, but no ashiness.