|This Hilton hotel casual restaurant concept was some executive wizard's genius idea for how Hilton can dominate the hotel business and rake in the bucks instead of deferring people to nearby Starbucks or eateries. They've pretty much failed. Located at the entrance floor of the Union Square Hilton, it reminds one of a glorified airport caf� -- from its packaged sandwiches, exhorbitant prices, unskilled laborforce, and crummy coffee. What's most disappointing is that Illy is behind this -- even down to the level of labeling it with "Artisti del Gusto" recognition. The only artists here are performance artists emulating a Newark, New Jersey airport coffee shop. In addition to the pastries and refrigerated and prepackaged food in back, there are big Illy cans feeding their coffee service. A two-group, red La Marzocco FB/70 is on display, but in unskilled hands they produce espresso with a scant, medium brown crema that's completely balding: it's a whisper of brown film over a dark liquid. The aroma is faint and competes with the cardboard cup they serve it in. It has a mild form of the expected Illy flavor, tasting underdosed and leaning more towards smoke and ash. Embarrassing for the Illy brand and their quality controls, really. They should also charge no more than $1 for a shot of this poor quality.