|The owner of the nearby Higher Grounds caf� undertook a labor of love to open this Italian restaurant with new brick work and warm woods in the old Bird & Beckett location. It is a spacious location with imported brickwork that required special trucks to bring up from Long Beach. They offer inexpensive but brand-conscious Italian wines and mostly good Italian food. The owner even speaks Italian, and the pasta is "fatto in casa." Most importantly, the espresso is pretty solid. Using a La Cimbali machine and Graffeo beans, they serve it as a short shot in a narrow, tall demitasse (from World China porcelana with a mismatched large saucer) with a medium brown, even crema. While it is properly served, it lacks flavor range and depth: there's some spice and darker herbal elements, but otherwise not too notable. It's admirable that they're still sticking with old school Graffeo and following the right protocols, but the quality could still be something more.