|This more informal, osteria sister to the Quince restaurant next door (its name is Italian for "quince") offers a mighty fine, albeit somewhat pricey, Italian meal. Frequented by the old money, older Jackson Square set with an unusual wine menu where everything is priced at $40/bottle. There's a lot of wide glass, exposed woods, a wood-fired oven (with spare wood surrounding the entrance), dishtowels for napkins, and - surprisingly - a two-group Synesso behind the zinc bar. Cleverly, they employ a doserless Mazzer grinder, enforcing good practices among their staff so that they grind to order. But it's not like they would have to, as this restaurant seems to dedicate an employee to barista duties better than just about any other restaurant we've visited. Using coffee from Roast Coffee Co. in Emeryville, they pull shots with a richly colored, mottled, medium and lighter brown crema with irregular suspended bubbles. It's served a little high, but not bad for a doppio. It has a good, solid mouthfeel, with a roundness to its flavor - which is more focused in the pepper and cloves area. At $4, it's seriously expensive. But we like to reward good restaurant espresso service too, and there's a lot of good practices going on here. Milk frothing is a bit stiff, dry, and generous but OK.