|Formerly Hawthorne Lane, the restaurant toned itself down for a less monied crowd while keeping the general ambiance. In a private side entrance, past a garage doorway along Hawthorne St., the many-tabled restaurant is centered around a modern bar in the middle taht sports a shiny, two-group Elektra machine. With it they pull shots with a darker brown crema of moderate thickness. It tastes mostly of smoky tobacco - what you might expect from Graffeo - but yet it's handled generally well. Especially well for a restaurant. Note: the chef plans to shut it down at the end of 2009.