|The story behind Rodger Bories first SF caf� is intertwined with the Coffee Magic wholesale coffee business he started going back to 1982. Most notably, in 2002 he paired up with Phil Jaber of Gateway Liquor to make something out of their terrible coffee operations, which eventually became Philz Coffee. While Phil quickly took the path of the P.T. Barnum of SF's specialty coffee world, Mr. Bories cared more about the coffee than showmanship and ultimately brought their "One Cup At A Time" filter coffee concept here. But you can distinctly tell the difference between Mr. Jaber and Mr. Bories, as this caf� exhibits a much greater knowledge and care of bean origins, preparation methods, and techniques. There's some limited sidewalk seating out front on benches and plastic chairs. Inside there's a bench and some limited window counter stool seating, but the main attraction is standing up at the coffee bar for service Italian style. There you can identify dozens of coffee varietals in plastic bins (some blends, but many with geographic designations - unlike Philz). You can choose any kind you like for espresso (more than you would practically want), even if the main attraction here is the individually-made filter drip coffee (though you also have to watch the service pour their hot chocolate). The staff is friendly and generally sarcastic, and coffee industry rags cover the counters. For our espresso shot, we chose the limited edition Brazil Poco Fundo, in place of the usual Brazil Fazenda. They are careful to grind to order and are conscientious about all their beverage preparation. Using a two-group Synesso machine, they pull overly full espresso shots (our main complaint is the volume) in a cup without a saucer. It has a healthy layer of a medium- and light-brown crema, with a body that is somewhat thinner given the size of the pour. It has a simple herbal flavor with some spice and smoke, but you can tell it's fresh. (For home use purchase at $13/lb.) Cash only.