|The downtown location of this legendary local chain can be spotted right after you see the insane lines for nearby Voodoo Doughnuts. But don't get us wrong: this place has lines of its own. They have a couple of small sidewalk tables outside and a cavernous space inside, which includes several tables and benches along the long wall, a magazine rack, limited front window counter stool seating, a rack of coffee and accessories, and a long coffee bar. Plus a Technics turntable at the back for DJ'ing and rear bathrooms covered in graffiti. All sorts of Portland locals and visitors line up here: from the wandering tourist to hipsters in bright orange or pink pants. It was odd to once see a Mistral machine set off to the side and neglected, but that's what happens when you install a new, three-group La Marzocco La Strada machine. Behind the service area there's a brick wall with a large mirror to show off what happens behind the La Strada - plus some stool seating off to the side of the machine. They offer several single cup Chemex variations. By 2015, the cold brew on tap earned a lot of promotion. As for their espresso, they pull shots with an even, hybrid crema of darker and lighter brown that suggests some unevenness in the draw. The resulting cup is potent and has a semi-syrupy body, with a good deal of brightness that doesn't go over the top (as you might expect for Hairbender at times). Flavorwise, it has something of a peppery edge over a kind of allspice/nutmeg spice profile and a semi-creamy mouthfeel. Served in a brown logo ACF cup. Milk-frothing is adequate but very restrained, as is the latte art. A solid espresso, but as with other Stumptowns we've visited, hardly ranking among our favorites in North America. The fuss does not seem generally justified.