|This Thomas Keller restaurant started out in 2006 as a temporary space that quickly became permanent in its popularity. Unlike his sister restaurant in town, the French Laundry, the atmosphere is very informal and a bit of actual fun. Staffers choose the music - largely older pop music (Johnny Cash is a universal favorite) - played off an iPod. As long as Thomas approves of it. But the food here is as serious as anything. And their sign may say "for temporary relief of hunger," but they serve enough food on their pricey prix fixe menu to keep you full for days. Using a UNIC Twin Phoenix at the wine-only bar, they pull shots with a balding, scant, medium brown crema. It has an overly bitter aroma that translates to flavor: more tobacco and some ash. Our appetites crashed and burned by the cheese course, but the espresso threw it off a cliff. Thomas Keller has no business pretending he knows anything about coffee with this kind of service. But at least they didn't charge for it after such a meal.