|Beneath the Nutella smells of the nearby Ferrero factory, and just past the weekend flea markets at the northern edge of the old city center, this café serves almost exclusively locals. It's extremely popular with them, especially as they fight for space at the glass bar and a few modern tables inside. There's heavy Illy branding. Using a three-group Leva 3 manual La San Marco machine, supplied by Tuttobar, they produce a mottled medium brown crema of good density and some thickness. It has the Illy flavor for a base, but there's a greater robustness that comes from having more accessible supplies in Italy. There's also some herbal elements besides Illy's usual flavor profile of pleasant, mild spices and some woodiness. The best espresso in town. ?0.90.